⚠️ TRAVEL AT YOUR OWN RISK DUE TO THE WAR
Every time I tell foreigners I come from Vinnytsia, Ukraine, I see puzzled looks. The name is not the easiest to remember. Once, someone gave me the trick: think about Venice + Ibiza = Vinnytsia (VEN + IZA). Clever, right? And yes, this is my home city. I was born here, and not writing about it would feel like a sin. Growing up, you don’t always see the beauty and history around you. But if you stand still for a moment and look closer, you will realize that under your feet are layers of centuries, and every corner hides a story.
There are a few legends about the name. One says it comes from the river Vinnychka. Another version is from the old Slavic word “vino,” meaning “gift.” But my favorite one is about Piani Vyna (translation: Drunken Wine). In short, people used to call strong liquor “drunken wine,” and the city had plenty of taverns and cellars where it was brewed and stored. If you ask me, that sounds like the most authentic story. Since Eastern Europe is often associated with drinking anyway, it makes perfect sense. 👌
If you look at a map, you will notice something interesting: Vinnytsia sits right in the middle of Ukraine. Literally the heartbeat of the country. That’s also why history has been so generous and cruel here since this land has always been at a crossroads.
Fortresses
Vinnytsia was officially established in 1363, and you can imagine what it meant to live here back then. It was a border city, and being a border city came at a price. Over the centuries, four different fortresses were built, burned, rebuilt, and sieged again. They stood as protection against invaders, but they also witnessed countless battles and destruction. Today, only fragments remain: a few walls, foundations, and fading memories. The name Zamkova Hora (Castle Hill) is the last reminder of its glorious and bloody past.
The Underground
Speaking of liquors, they had to be stored somewhere, right? That’s why Vinnytsia has so many underground tunnels. Dig a cellar for wine and strong liquors in the 16th or 17th century, add a few hundred years, and voilà, you end up with mazes of tunnels under the main square.
But that is not the whole story. Over time, these tunnels grew into a real labyrinth beneath the old town. Some cellars were built by Jesuit monks, others belonged to merchants who needed storage for trade goods. In the times of war, they even doubled as shelters.
Today you can visit parts of these undergrounds. Some of the chambers are enormous and reach at least 9 meters high, which explains why in the historic city center you do not see many tall buildings. The foundations and underground halls take up so much space beneath the ground that construction above had to adapt to them.
The Water Tower
One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is the Water Tower, built in the early 20th century. It stands 28 meters tall, octagonal, 7 floors and served as both a water tower and a fire lookout. Originally, it was also about giving rich people access to drinkable water, since the river was… well, let’s just say not very safe. There was no sewage system back then, so imagine where all the waste went - to the nearby river. And you know what that meant: diseases. And if you can't drink water... You drink strong liquors. 😂 Today the tower houses a small museum, and from the top you get one of the best views of the city.
Savoy, Soborna Street, and Jerusalem District
Soborna Street is the city’s main street and the heart of Vinnytsia. Today it is the city center, but back in the days it was the main trade road. Ever since, it has been the place where goods, people, and ideas were traded, flowed, and exchanged.
Right off that street lies the Jerusalemka district (Jewish community). Originally an artisan quarter, Jerusalemka became a vibrant hub of Jewish life. Many Jewish families lived nearby, working as traders, craftsmen, and merchants. Having the trade street right next door made perfect sense. Over the years, the district expanded to include up to 11 synagogues and evolved into a tightly packed, lively hub of Jewish life.
But as with any main street, Soborna also came with remarkable buildings. One that still stands out is the Savoy Hotel, built in 1912. This building has witnessed change after change, saw rulers come and go, and history pass right by its windows. Today it remains one of the eye-catchers of the city center.
Pan Zavarkin & Sons Café-Museum
If you would like to experience something extraordinary, a café where you can enjoy tea or coffee while at the same time immersing yourself in history, then you should visit Pan Zavarkin & Sons Café Museum.
The story goes back to the beginning of the last century, before the Russian Revolution. A man named Moisei Fligeltub ran a shop in Vinnytsia that sold tea, coffee, spices, and curiosities. Later, he converted to Orthodoxy and took the last name Zavarkin. Over time, his passion for collecting antiques transformed that small shop into today’s café museum.
So what's so special about it? Inside, the atmosphere feels like stepping into your grandfather’s living room. Antique clocks line the walls, from tall wooden pendulum clocks with Roman numerals to smaller mantle clocks with delicate faces. Some even surprise you with little figures or cuckoos that pop out on the hour.
The interior is styled after the late 19th and early 20th century, complete with fabric wallpaper, plaster cornices, and ornate ceilings. A heavy bronze chandelier, candelabras, a mahogany buffet, and even a piano create the impression of a wealthy merchant’s home. This reconstruction is called the “Living Room of Happy Times” and once you sit down with your drink, you understand why.
Food and Hospitality
Let’s talk food. In Ukraine, food isn’t just food, it is tradition, it is hospitality, it is a way of saying, welcome, you are one of us now. Borscht, the famous beetroot soup, comes steaming hot with a bit of sour cream. Then there are varenyky (dumplings), which can be filled with potatoes, cheese, meat, or even cherries if you like it sweet. And trust me, once you sit down at a family table, you will be fed until you can’t move. If you leave without gaining at least 2 kilos, your host will be offended. That’s how we show love: by feeding you into submission. And don’t forget, there will always be a bottle of strong liquor on the table because in my city, you don’t just eat like royalty, you also drink like one 😉.
The Fountain: Mini Dubai
If you think fountains are boring, that is because you have never been to my hometown. Vinnytsia is home to the Roshen Fountain, often nicknamed 'Mini Dubai'. The name is not official, of course, but travelers and guides love the comparison. And honestly, when you see the jets of water dancing, you understand why it gets all the hype.
What makes it stand out is the fact that it is Europe’s largest floating fountain, built directly on the Southern Bug River. Unlike Dubai’s fountains that perform on artificial waters, this one uses the real, flowing water from the river. The jets can shoot up to 65-70 meters high, with a frontal spread that can stretch up to 140 meters wide. In the evenings, the fountain becomes a main attraction with music, lights, lasers, and synchronized water choreography, turning the river into pure magic. Even today, despite the difficult times, its reputation as one of Vinnytsia’s highlights remains.
When the war is finally over, I can only hope you come and see my hometown with your own eyes. Vinnytsia is not Asia or America, it is Eastern Europe in its purest form — unique, charming, and real. And if you ask me, that is already a good reason to visit.
